RIDING GIANTS - Blu-ray review

"Riding Giants" just might be the best surfing film ever made. Recently released by Sony Pictures Classics on Blu-ray, this documentary breaks down the extreme sport's origins, history and change over time into the present. Forget everything you know, or think you might know, about what surfing is or how it works. This film writes its own rules.

Now, understand that I know as much about surfing as I do about nuclear physics. It isn't a world I live in, and that's not because I dislike it. I'm about as indifferent as one could be. I've never actually tried to surf, but respect those who have and are skilled enough to do it well. It has never looked easy, and after watching "Riding Giants," I learned that it is anything but. Plus, I always thought there was an image that came with surfing, sort of saying that those who do it have to look, act and speak specific ways. I was dead on, and got some exposure to the dialect you'll probably pick up pretty quick if you eat, sleep and breathe surfing.

Before we go further, it's important to know that "surfing" basically refers to a person standing on their feet atop a board. Within surfing, there's "longboarding" and "shortboarding," and hopefully you can gauge the distinction there. This is different than "wakeboarding," "windsurfing," "bodysurfing," "bodyboarding" and "kitesurfing." It's far more complicated than I gave it credit for, and the experts who provide their two cents in "Riding Giants" will be sure you know the distinctions.

This is probably the most casual documentary you'll ever encounter, but it manages to incorporate the typical documentary elements you'd anticipate. There's historical background, personal interviews, a steady narration and more than a little actual footage from the events the experts lived through and can now tell about. You might not recognize it through all the fluff, such as rock music and fancy transitions to the next scene, but trust me, it's present.

Apparently, surfing dates back over 1,000 years in the Hawaiian Islands, but had to go on hiatus after missionaries came through the area and other popular watering holes in the 1800s. The traditionally Polynesian sport had a rebirth in the 20th century, when a place called Waikiki decided surfing might entice tourists. The film tells us 1912 was when things got big, thanks to a fellow named Duke Kahanamoku, who holds a unique claim to fame: he's the only surfer to ever appear on a U.S. stamp. Duke also was a surfing ambassador, spreading the word about how wonderful an experience it was to places like New York, Australia and California.

Fast forward to 1948 and meet Greg Noll, a southern California kid who took up surfing not because it was extreme or entertaining, but because it came with a lifestyle. Not only did surfers spend their days on the water, they developed a unique network where they could socialize and be with other die hards, creating a special bond that transcended age, geography and so many other classifications. Noll tells us that in the 1950s the entire surfing world changed thanks to the lightweight long board, and he becomes the film's focus for its first third. Incidentally, Noll is a kick. He's older now, but everything that comes from his mouth is totally unfiltered. He lets you know what he thinks, complete with profanity and a direct, no nonsense tone. He also was surfing's most entrepreneurial mind at that time, and managed to make more than his share of money manufacturing boards and selling them to this new breed of hungry folks dying to join the culture.

Eventually, word came east from Makaha, a Hawaiian inlet, that the water and culture around surfing were too good to pass up. Thus, things shifted to the islands, and the early culture brought young men who didn't care where they slept, what they ate or who they had to be around, so long as they could ride the waves. Thanks to the 1959 film "Gidget," surfing tripled its popularity, and surf shops opened up and down the California coast. Hollywood has apparently been pretty offensive to the surfing community, what with its less than accurate filmmaking about the topic, and the experts given a space to speak their piece during "Riding Giants" aren't afraid to tell viewers how they feel about this.

We also learn about just what the heck a surfer is doing in the ocean, and it all begins with the lineups. These are the reference points that help surfers figure out where they are in relation to the coast, the reef and the incoming surf. Apparently, you don't want to get caught in the break, which is mistiming a set of waves and ending up having to paddle like a madman to just get over the wave rather than catch and ride it. If you're caught, well, you get hammered by the water that crashes after the wave breaks, and it's damn difficult to get out. The take off is pretty much what it sounds like, where you have to find a niche to gather your balance just before the bottom of the wave becomes the top of the wave and the whole thing crashes. Yipe.

You might think this whole big wave surfing thing is somewhat dangerous after reading the paragraph above. Bingo. In fact, "Riding Giants" doesn't skimp on the less than happy moments, profiling a half dozen men and women who have lost their lives doing what they love. It's a dangerous life and career, but any big wave surfer would probably tell you the potential rewards outweigh the potential consequences. It probably takes more guts than sanity, depending on whom you ask, but others might claim it's more mental than physical. One thing's for darn sure: you'd better know what you're doing out there, or you're probably going to get reamed.

I enjoyed the film because it goes directly to those who know about surfing best and uses their knowledge and expertise to tell its story. The whole thing is authentic, and there aren't any stunt doubles in the actual footage you witness. The interviews are beyond candid, and the film's editing is just right, with cuts that are sharp and timed but don't feel rehearsed. It isn't a significant work to earn a place on my all time favorite film's list, but it did play on opening night at Sundance in 2004.

I think the word that best sums up "Riding Giants" is passion. Clearly, the filmmakers possess it, as do the experts who share their knowledge from beginning to end. Heck, anyone who wants to risk his or her life for an entire day doing something they love is at the very least passionate, and at the most, probably a little nuts. But I bet if you asked these pros, they'd tell you they wouldn't want it any other way.

Video:
The film's 1080p high definition transfer is sadly inconsistent throughout the 1.85:1 video transfer. The interviews with professionals and experts have moments where grain is clearly present, and others where it's gone. Where there's grain, the colors lack brightness, even though "Riding Giants" uses disproportionately sunny shots from Hawaii and California coastlines. Where the grain can't be found, colors pop with no difficulty. Clearly, some footage used in the film is older than others, and while this isn't an issue, the fact that it impacts the viewing experience is.

Audio:
Thankfully, the English 5.1 DTS-HD MA soundtrack is really good. Spoken words are clear and easy to pick up, and water crashing upon itself is unmistakable. The surround sound isn't anything spectacular, but it does bring through an amazing bunch of musical selections, from rock to traditional Hawaiian drums and more. It's all set to the images on screen, causing the audio to flow with the video quite well. If "surfing music" isn't its own genre at your local CD shop, this film makes a case for amending that.

Extras:
There are two commentaries: one with director Stacy Peralta and editor Paul Crowder, the second with writer Sam George and a few surfing legends featured in the film. Also included are a handful of deleted scenes, and a few features, including "The Making of Riding Giants" and "FUEL TV's Blue Carpet Special." My guess is surfing fans will love these add ons, but novices might not be chomping at the bit. One thing you'll learn through the extras is just how passionate these surfers are about what they do and the culture that surrounds it. We should all be so lucky.

A Final Word:
I learned more than I expected to, and was pretty entertained during "Riding Giants." It may never get much credibility as a documentary because its subject matter is slightly unconventional (of course, that depends on who you ask), but it follows a format and relies on the people in the know to propel it forward. In many ways, the film is about those individuals just as much as surfing itself. Shouldn't most stories be that way?